The world's original example of the modern Oktoberfest style of beer (and to many beer lovers the  very best) is the exceptional Ur-Märzen of the Spaten Brewery of Munich.  “Spaten” means “spade” in German and the brewery's logo appropriately features two malt shovels side by side.  Spaten Ur-Märzen was first brewed in 1872 and is still the benchmark against which other Oktoberfest beers are judged.  Spaten has a deep amber color, and features a rich semi-dry maltiness with just a tantalizing compliment of sweetness that is not overdone.  To balance this maltiness is a judicious addition of noble-type European hop varieties such as Hallertau and Tettnang: just enough to balance the mild sweetness, not to mask it with excessive bitterness.  This makes it a remarkably quaffable brew that invites copious consumption, despite its rich flavor and higher-than-average alcohol percentage of about six percent by volume.

Another fine German Oktoberfest beer that merits an honorable mention is Paulaner Oktoberfest, also of  Munich.  Paulaner is the brewer of its own prototype standard beer, the famous Salvator Doppelbock,  but its interpretation of the maerzen style of lager is also worthy of high praise.  Like Spaten, Paulaner Oktoberfest features a moderately dark amber hue, but is a tad sweeter in its maltiness than its famous cross-town rival.  Its wonderful balanced character is similarly inviting (and dangerously so!) to the temptation to chain swill it.  Approach this seductive brew with caution, unless you are properly strapped into your seat!

Here in the U.S.A., a number of craft brewers have concocted their own versions of the Oktoberfest style.  There are several fine examples, although they are hard-pressed to match the uniquely rich malty  character of their German counterparts.  This is because many German brewers insist on maintaining a time-tested technique in brewing that is known as decoction mashing.  In decoction mashing, a thick portion of the barley malt mash is actually removed from the main kettle during brewing and is separately boiled in a separate kettle, and is then returned to the main mash.  This process imparts a depth of malt flavor and character that is not possible with the simple infusion mashing (soaking the malt grains in one kettle, or mash tun, in hot water) that is practiced by the vast majority of American brewers.  However, there are still a number of excellent versions, brewed by such stalwarts of the Yankee craft brewing industry like Samuel Adams and the Brooklyn Brewery.  But perhaps my favorite American interpretation of this style is produced by the Harpoon Brewing Company of Boston and Windsor, Vermont.  Harpoon Oktoberfest features a very pleasant, only slightly sweet richness of malt character.  It has slightly more hop flavor than the standard for German maerzen beers, but the crisp spiciness that the hops impart creates a balance of flavor that makes for what one might call a remarkably egalitarian drinking experience.


I have noticed that more and more in recent years, the classic German maerzen-style Oktoberfest beers have been increasingly difficult to find on many local store shelves near where I live.  The mass proliferation of American “micro brew” beers has resulted in a vigorous competition for the limited space available in stores. As a result, the German Oktoberfest beers have become a somewhat rare commodity.  It would be a shame to see those beers disappear completely, because they are paragons of the brewing craft and deserve their proper homage.  But at the very least, what the American brewers can do is to heed the lessons the Germans have taught us about what it takes to produce a classic festival beer.  If it tastes good enough over here, then maybe I can put off that sacred pilgrimage for a while!

Prost,
Glenn